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解構主義 時尚界的叛逆份子

70年代時尚產業掀起反時尚運動，以「解構主義」挑戰人體身型比例，顛覆服裝線條結構，打破時尚的「完美」與「精緻」。錯置布料、不對稱輪廓、外露縫線，設計師寫下未完成的叛逆詩章，跨越年代的美學革命。

By Quenti Lu, An Chen and Noel Khoo
Face, Beauty, Eyebrow, Lip, Chin, Neck, Eye, Photography, Model, Black-and-white,

70年代時尚產業掀起反時尚運動，以「解構主義」挑戰人體身型比例，顛覆服裝線條結構，打破時尚的「完美」與「精緻」。錯置布料、不對稱輪廓、外露縫線，設計師寫下未完成的叛逆詩章，跨越年代的美學革命。

1

Maison Margiela

Clothing, Fashion, Fashion model, Haute couture, Dress, Costume design, Victorian fashion, Fashion design, Outerwear, Beige,

空白棉布標籤是Maison Margiela對反時尚無聲的宣示，卻打響了反時尚先鋒的地位。John Galliano承襲創辦人Martin Margiela的解構設計，總是帶來毫無意外的驚喜。剖去布料，保留服裝結構線條，布料層次堆疊，留下框架之下的想像無限。

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

2

Maison Margiela

Clothing, Fashion, Black, Leather, Outerwear, Jacket, Overcoat, Leather jacket, Dress, Street fashion,

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

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3

Maison Margiela

Green, Style, Costume accessory, Fashion, Costume design, Bag, Fashion design, Shoulder bag,

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

4

Maison Margiela

Clothing, Fashion, Street fashion, Runway, Dress, Fashion model, Fashion show, Outerwear, Footwear, Spring,

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

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5

Maison Margiela

Pattern, Fashion, Knee, Street fashion, Bag, Design, Fashion design, Costume design, Net, Boot,

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

6

Maison Margiela

Hat, Fashion accessory, Style, Jewellery, Headgear, Costume accessory, Street fashion, Fashion, Neck, Fashion model,

Maison Margiela 2017秋冬系列

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7

Ann Demeulemeester

Textile, Outerwear, Costume design, Street fashion, Fashion, Fashion model, Beige, Umbrella, Fashion design, Costume,

不對稱的剪裁在絲質與薄紗上留下維多利亞式的破壞，化作荷葉與皺褶的不羈浪漫。天鵝絨、皮草 、蕾絲拼湊少女的複雜心思；皮革與俐落剪裁述說她們的剛柔並濟。絲帶在空中留下溫柔呢喃。

Ann Demeulemeester 2017秋冬系列

8

Ann Demeulemeester

Clothing, Suit, White, Black, Formal wear, Fashion, Street fashion, Outerwear, Blazer, Tuxedo,

Ann Demeulemeester 2017秋冬系列

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9

Ann Demeulemeester

Clothing, White, Fashion, Fashion model, Footwear, Dress, Street fashion, Outerwear, Fur, Neck,

Ann Demeulemeester 2017秋冬系列

10

Ann Demeulemeester

Clothing, Fashion model, Style, Dress, Street fashion, Fashion, Fashion show, Model, Haute couture, Fashion design,

Ann Demeulemeester 2017秋冬系列

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11

Ann Demeulemeester

Brown, Textile, Dress, Bag, Fashion, Costume design, Shoulder bag, One-piece garment, Peach, Beige,

Ann Demeulemeester 2017秋冬系列

12

Yohji Yamamoto

Sleeve, Textile, Dress, Style, Formal wear, Fashion model, Fashion, Black, Street fashion, Boot,

皺褶與皺褶的交疊之間時光相錯，前衛中透露復古的優雅；當一切只剩下無限的黑，傾聽針線與布料的細語，黑色詩人Yohji Yamamoto再次以黑與不規格的剪裁，譜寫剪影輪廓。

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

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13

Yohji Yamamoto

Clothing, Coat, Overcoat, Fashion, Outerwear, Fashion model, Trench coat, Formal wear, Dress, Suit,

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

14

Yohji Yamamoto

Clothing, Sleeve, Shoulder, Textile, Joint, Formal wear, Style, Fashion model, Street fashion, Fashion,

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

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15

Yohji Yamamoto

Clothing, Style, Fashion model, Fashion, Black, Leather, Pattern, Street fashion, Bag, Fashion design,

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

16

Yohji Yamamoto

Clothing, Fashion, Fashion model, Hat, Fedora, Coat, Eyewear, Headgear, Suit, Shoulder,

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

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17

Yohji Yamamoto

Fashion, Outerwear, Human, Jacket, Black hair, Coat, Street fashion, Gothic fashion, Model, Blazer,

Yohji Yamamoto 2017秋冬系列

18

Balenciaga

Clothing, Leather, Fashion, Tights, Jacket, Knee, Outerwear, Leather jacket, Street fashion, Leg,

Oversized反折裙頭、以側面為主的皮革夾克、高低不對稱的襯衫，生活中的意外，都成了Demna Gvasalia的解構再構美學。除了在成衣注入高級訂製的細節設計，Demna Gvasalia更重新詮釋了的高訂禮服，保留Cristóbal Balenciaga標誌性的禮服輪廓，融入前衛的趣味元素。

Balenciaga 2017秋冬系列

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19

Balenciaga

Tartan, Plaid, Clothing, Pattern, Red, Fashion, Street fashion, Footwear, Coat, Outerwear,

Balenciaga 2017秋冬系列

20

Balenciaga

Clothing, Fashion, Fashion model, Beauty, Violet, Neck, Purple, Street fashion, Haute couture, Lip,

Balenciaga 2017秋冬系列

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